Asked for 'no plan, no clue.' Eight hours later I'd eaten at a market stall, drunk makgeolli with his uncle, and learned to read three signs.

Walked into a bar with no sign and left with three new friends. Tours don't do this.

Skipped the palaces. Spent the day eating where my oppa eats. Best 12,000 won I've ever spent on lunch.

He still texts me when there's a good thing happening in Busan. I'm flying back in October.

I came for the food. I left with WhatsApp threads to three different oppas and a kimchi recipe.